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Growing Worsleya procera

The "Blue Amaryllis"

Photo by Glenn Callcott

Growing medium -- The best medium is porous rock such as scoria, lava rock or other volcanic rock.  It has lots of air space which the roots need, yet it holds on to some moisture in its pores.  I use something called Dyna-rok II.  Local hydroponics stores may sell this, or check Google.  You may use a mix of half Fine grade and half Medium grade Dyna-rok. 

A small amount of organic material may be mixed in to retain extra moisture and nutrients, like coco husks or fine-grade orchid bark.  This is especially useful in hotter or drier climates, where more moisture retention is needed.  Do not use much, however (less than 10%).  No soil should be used.

I recommend leaving the plant in its pot for 2 weeks, so it can recover from being shipped.  You may give it some sunlight during this time, with protection from strong afternoon sun.  After 2 weeks, you may transplant it to a 6-8 inch (15-20 cm) tall pot, leaving the upper part of the bulb exposed. The pot should have ample drainage holes at the bottom.

Transplant gently to avoid damaging the roots, and give bright shade the first 3-4 weeks.  Then increase the sun gradually, over a period of a month or two.

Watering -- Water once a day, using enough water so that it freely runs out the bottom of the pot.  About once a week, i submerge the pot in a bucket of water, to "recharge" the rocks with moisture.  During periods of slower growth, such as during cooler temperatures, you may need to reduce the watering frequency.  When you go on vacation, you will need to use an automated watering device - unless you can get someone reliable to water it for you!

Fertilizer -- Worsleya can often grow fine with typical, all-purpose fertilizer, but it's happiest with a fertilizer that's relatively low in phosphorous, and higher in potassium and nitrogen.  A good ratio is around 15-5-30 for N-P-K.  I prefer using a liquid hydroponics fertilizer, specifically General Hydroponics "Flora" series of nutrients.  You can buy them at hydroponics shops, or online.  A good ratio is 2 parts "Micro", 4 parts "Grow", and 1 part "Bloom".

Whichever fertilizer you choose, you can either feed with each watering using a weak dose, or feed once a week with a stronger dose.

It's normal for an older leaf to occasionally turn yellow and drop, but if it seems excessive, try increasing the nitrogen fertilizer. Yellowing leaves may also indicate that the roots are staying too dry.

Climate & sunlight -- Worsleya comes from an area with moderate temperatures and cooler nights, similar to San Diego's climate.  Try to protect it from temperatures above 90 degrees F (32°C), or at least give it cooler temperatures at night.  In a warm greenhouse, put the plant on the floor, and keep the pot shaded.  Outdoors, it can tolerate a couple degrees of frost, but i recommend keeping it above 35 degrees F (2°C). 

Worsleya likes mostly-sunny conditions, with some protection from strong afternoon sun, especially in warmer conditions.  Remember to shade the plant for a few weeks after transplanting, then increase the sun slowly. 

Over about 40% humidity is recommended.

Good luck with it!

Jeff

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